green energy solar and wind turbine vawt hawt diy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:11 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:08 pm
Posts: 9
The Cycloturbine unit starts in a slow breeze and comes up to the 2 mph rotation quickly, at this point the transfer of torque is unrestricted and converted to increase the rotation speed of the alternator.

There are 16 coils, each coil is wound to produce +5 volts with one magnet layer. the second set of magnets improve the strength of the output at low speed.

The output voltage is steady at 26.3 - 27.7 volts dc on the 24v side after rectification´╗┐ with a 2-12 mph wind. the watts at 1200 increase and decrease with the wind speed some days the amps are at 30 and others I see a 60 amp output. On a strong windy day with high winds.

The windmill blades are 5 feet apart this gives the unit an easy start and supplies the torque to start turning the trans. The trans. will convert 1 rotation of the windmill to 14 rotations of the alternator. This is why the windmill unit looks like its turning too slow to produce much of an output, "but don't doubt the power in the wind" The windmill also has an inner set of narrow blades 16" apart that will counteract the force of high winds and slow the units rotation in high winds, this is how I am able to control the 2 to 10 mph speed of the unit. The harder the wind force is the slower the unit will spin. This is for safety to avoid undue stress on the unit.

The unit has been tested in 80 mph winds with a tree limb falling on it and came out with no damage still spinning. The Polycarbonate blades are very strong and not affected buy the sun. I used these on a job where the young adults were breaking the glass windows, after I replace the windows with the polycarbonate a video camera recorded one of the young adults throwing a brick at the polycarbonate window without damage to the window the brick bounced back and injured the thrower, with that I knew polycarbonate would work for the blades and would be strong, they have a tint to them so the birds can see them also.

The drive shaft of the windmill is 3/4 " iron pipe with a SKF-BR4 cone wheel bearing from a trailer axle to handle the torque on the drive shaft . I milled out a 2" reducer to fit the bearing race and act as an auto oilier housing, the oil is drawn up to the top bearing with the rotation of the drive shaft and flows down inside the 2" drive shaft housing pipe to lubricate the lower bearing then is collected and drawn up again to the top bearing to complete the cycle. there is a 3/8" rod run inside the 3/4" drive shaft to adjust the pitch of the blades with the direction of the tail, the windmill unit is self maintaining.

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